1983 Mercury 80 Hp Outboard 6333939 Gear Case Oil
Changing Gearcase Oil on Your Sterndrive or Outboard Motor's Lower Unit
By Tom Brunt, Concluding updated: vi/24/2019
Most sterndrive and outboard manufacturers advise you to change the gearcase oil in your lower unit every 100 hours or once a yr (whichever comes first). Clean oil is critical for protecting the heavily loaded gears in your lower unit and preventing expensive damage. Servicing the lower unit of measurement is a uncomplicated job that you tin easily practise yourself.
What You'll Need to Change you Lower Unit Oil
W Marine Synthetic Blend Lower Unit Gear Lube
- A large, directly-blade screwdriver for the lower unit drain and vent plug screws
- Replacement O-rings/sealing washers for lower unit drain and vent plug screws
- Lower Unit Lube of the advisable type
- Lower Unit Quart Pump & Lube Tube with an adapter plumbing fixtures that fits your engine
- Catch pan for the used lower unit of measurement oil
- Container to bear used lower unit oil to a haz-mat recycling center
- Clean rags and disposable gloves
Choosing the Right Lower Unit Oil
Your Owner's Manual will recommend the manufacturer'due south proprietary lower unit of measurement lube and that is always a condom choice. We can recommend our Due west Marine and Pure Oceans brand Lower Unit of measurement lubes, which meet all engine manufacturer'due south specifications and warranty requirements. For older Johnson/Evinrude outboards (1962-72) with electric shift, you'll demand Premium Type C Lube.
Changing the Lower Unit Oil
The lower drain/make full plug screw is usually located on the starboard side of the lower unit, below the "bullet-shaped" portion of the lower unit housing. Locate your drain/fill up plug screw and adapt the trim/tilt of your outboard motor or sterndrive and then that this plug is in the everyman position possible in society to drain the used oil thoroughly.
Utilise your large screwdriver to remove the lower drain plug screw. This is ofttimes easier said than done, because the steel screw in an aluminum housing can become stuck due to galvanic corrosion. If yours is stuck, try soaking the plug with penetrating oil, like WD-40, and letting information technology piece of work overnight. You can also choice upward a transmission bear on screwdriver (less than $ten at Harbor Freight) which turns the plug slightly when striking with a hammer. Finally, you tin can effort using oestrus from a heat gun. Be patient and persistent, simply try not to strip the slot in the plug head because drilling out the plug will be a major headache.
With the bleed plug spiral loosened and your take hold of pan in identify, continue pressure on the screw and so it won't autumn into the pan and be covered with oil. Snatch it abroad as the oil begins to slowly drip out. So remove the upper vent plug screw, usually located to a higher place the cavitation plate on the starboard side of the lower unit, and the oil will gush apace out of the drain hole. Requite the oil plenty of time to bleed completely, ideally for an hr or more.
The lower drain plug screw often has a magnetic tip. Fine metallic filings stuck at that place are normal, but y'all don't want to come across 'chunks' of metal. Inspect the oil in the pan. Over again, you may encounter some sparkle of metal filings in the oil, which is normal. Notwithstanding, milky white or flossy colored oil indicates that h2o has contaminated the gearcase, and grayness oil indicates some kind of failure in the gears or a bearing. Consult your mechanic if your lower unit of measurement shows any of the higher up danger signs. These need to be fixed before the boat goes back in the water.
After the oil is completely tuckered, screw the oil pump adapter plumbing fixtures to the lower drain hole, connect the Quart Pump which you've placed onto your quart of gear oil, and fill the lower unit of measurement. Keep pumping until the oil runs out the upper vent plug hole.
Nosotros recommend installing new O-rings/sealing washers on your drain and vent plug screws and coating them with a little non-metallic, marine-form anti-seize compound to make them easier to remove in the futurity. Clean all the metal flakes from the tip of both plug screws, and supersede the upper vent plug screw in the lower unit of measurement. Adjacent, you'll remove the oil pump adapter plumbing fixtures from the lower drain hole, with the lower bleed screw in your hand and set. Speedily replace the screw so only a little oil runs out.
At present you lot can thoroughly wipe the exterior of your lower unit of measurement to keep the oil out of the surround. And so canteen upwardly the used oil and take it to the local recycling center.
A few more than quick tasks:
- Use some grease to the zerk fittings on the pivot points of the motor mount
- Check the anodes on the lower unit and replace them if they're more than one-half dissolved. Choose new anodes: zinc (saltwater), aluminum (saltwater or brackish water) or magnesium (freshwater Just).
- Pull the prop and cheque for fishing line wrapped around the shaft. Wipe the shaft clean and apply plenty of fresh grease earlier reinstalling the prop. This is also a cracking time to have the prop serviced, if needed. If y'all're storing the engine on the boat, accept the prop home to forbid theft.
- Touch on up any nicks or areas where the pigment is worn with engine enamel or aluminum-compatible antifouling paint.
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1983 Mercury 80 Hp Outboard 6333939 Gear Case Oil UPDATED
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